Two settings do most of the work: the highest heating output the boiler is allowed to fire at, and the heating flow temperature. Hot water on a combi stays at its own higher output.
A non-condensing boiler cannot be optimised in the same way as a condensing boiler. Any saving from a lower flow temperature is much smaller than on a modern condensing boiler.
What still helps:
Replacing it is the larger step. A condensing boiler is the usual swap. A heat pump can take its place where the radiators and the house are suitable.
If this flow is keeping the house warm in peak winter, a heat pump may suit this system without many changes.
Check heat pump suitabilityA boiler left on its full heating rating often puts out more heat than the house can lose. It reaches temperature, shuts off, then starts again. Those short runs use more gas on each ignition, make more noise, and wear the boiler.
A lower central-heating maximum keeps the burner on longer at a lower rate. That is steadier heat, and on a condensing boiler it spends more time with a cool enough return to condense. On a combi, leave the hot-water output at its higher rating so the taps stay hot. A Gas Safe engineer sets this.
Return is taken as flow minus 20°C. Condensing starts once return is below about 54°C. Radiator output uses the EN 442 exponent 1.3 against a 20°C room. The saving uses the same efficiency curve as the condensing-mode calculator. Standing charge is not included. Changing boiler parameters is normally an engineer’s job. See how to lower flow temperature, maximum output mode, and OpenTherm controls.
2026-09-27 08:34 · 3